I specialize in Japanese SLT turntable repair & calibration. I have written on internet audio forums as Professor Bizzt.
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Online Auction Description
The Yamaha PX-2 and PX-3 Straight Line Tracking (SLT) direct drive turntables have a reputation for failed slot type photo interrupters of their Sensor C. Boards. These boards are no longer available and component level repair is necessary to put the board back into service. A PX-2 or PX-3 suffering from this typically exhibits the following symptoms:
1- Automatic start initiated by the 30cm, 25cm, or 17cm (30cm & 17cm on the PX-3) start buttons do not function.
2- Automatic tonearm lift and return at end of play does not function.
3- Shining a strong light into the photo interrupter area with the rear tonearm cover removed temporarily allows (albeit erratic) automatic operation.
4- Manual left and right cuing functions still work properly, provided there are no slipping drive issues.
If you remove the tonearm's rear cover, you will find that all three photo interrupter transmitters are still outputting red light. I assure you they are defective nonetheless.
Replacing the three slot type photo interrupters normally solves the automatic function problem. However there is another very common failure on a Yamaha PX-2 and PX-3 whereby the arm carriage may try to move, but has insufficient torque and requires manual assistance. The problem is almost always due to slipping carriage drive components.
This service (as opposed to my basic Sensor C. Board rebuild service) is considerably easier for you, as it only requires the removal of the tonearm assembly. The Sensor C. Board service that I offer requires you to remove the tonearm assembly and then remove the Sensor C. Board from it. So doing this is simpler for you and COMPLETELY addresses all of your tonearm problems. I STRONGLY recommend my complete tonearm assembly service over my Sensor C. Board only service.
Upon receipt, I test your Sensor C. Board. I then rebuild the Sensor C. Board with new photo interrupters if necessary, clean both limit switches, install a new primary drive belt (or belts in the case of the later YA-32 tonearm), and renew all other drive parts to proper working order. If all three photo interrupters are good, there will be a $50.00 deduction and refund from the normal $250.00 rebuild charge.
I test all sub-functions of the tonearm including the CdS sensor, vertical cuing, vertical limit switch, and the carriage drive motor. I can also perform major repairs to damaged parts such as bent tonearm pipes and other broken or traumatized parts for an extra charge, as I have special tools to perform these tasks.
This service comes with simple, but detailed step-by-step PDF instructions on how to remove and pack the tonearm. It takes about 30 minutes to remove a PX-2 or PX-3 tonearm assembly from your turntable, and the benefit in sending in your tonearm assembly as opposed to the whole turntable is lower shipping cost and less chance of damage in shipping.
Problems with PX-2s and PX-3s are normally limited to tonearm assemblies, therefore there is a very good chance that your problem would be solved by simply sending in your tonearm assembly instead of the whole turntable for repair. However, if you feel more comfortable with a thorough service, then you should send in the whole turntable. Having access to the whole turntable allows me to clean all internals, perform a full calibration, setup your cartridge, and to determine the condition of the complete unit. The cost for that service is $350.00 if new photo interrupters are required, and $300.00 if new photo interrupters are not required.
Most Yamaha PX users can simply remove and install their tonearm assembly without having to perform any calibration settings. Despite the fact that many customers have done just that, it would be unrealistic to claim that tonearm calibrations via electrical measurement and adjustment procedures could be avoided in all cases.
Remember that the price of this service is contingent upon you doing the calibration if necessary, so you must take the time to read the service manual and learn to perform the calibration yourself. The only calibration settings you might be required to perform are the Tonearm angle adjustment and the Tonearm position detecting adjustment and I do provide simplified PDF instructions of these two calibration procedures to those purchasing this service. I do not recommend that you attempt to perform any other calibration adjustments, and therefore I STRONGLY discourage any tampering with calibration pots unrelated to the strict removal and installation of the tonearm assembly only. Free technical assistance is not included for this service beyond the PDF documents I supply.
Technical post script: It's not uncommon to find advice on internet audio forums regarding so-called cures for PX-2 and PX-3 tonearm problems. Some of the recommended cures include re-forming the two final drive belt springs to provide more spring tension for the two flat belts. I STRONGLY recommend restraint here. People have needlessly broken parts on their tonearms because they attempted this and STILL failed to resolve their drive slippage issues.
There's a professional way to rectify slipping drive issues so common to the PX series, and I assure you the proper solution is not a quick and easy one-step procedure to simply deform the final drive belt springs. Doing this improperly also has a negative impact on the resale value of your PX.
NOTE: It is mandatory that you contact me for instructions BEFORE you remove and pack your tonearm assembly or turntable.
Like many, I'm new to Webstore.com and ask for your patience while I build my feedback score here. For now, I encourage you to check my ebay feedback (100% with a count of 582 as of 09/21/17; joined in 2003) and to research my audio electronics service work reputation online, as I want anyone that works with me to feel totally comfortable.
All of my online audio forum contributions (however I'm now taking a hiatus from all online forum contributions) were done under the Professor Bizzt user name, so that is the user name internet search term to use. My ebay and webstore.com user names are Professor-Bizzt and Professor_Bizzt respectively. I also maintain a youtube account using the Professor Bizzt name.
If you search internet audio forums for references to Professor Bizzt (very often misspelled), you will find commentary on my work. However, please keep in mind that many of my clients don't post on forums, and that forums are unfortunately populated to some degree with troll and quasi-troll commentary. Using good judgment to navigate through the percentage of deception and vitriol is required to get to the real truth.
DO NOT COMMIT TO PURCHASE THIS SERVICE IF YOU: Are unclear of what this is. Don't know how to use it responsibly. Are not careful with your installations. Tend to leave undeserved, inaccurate, and irrational feedback for others. Intend to criminally scam a seller. Do not intend to FULLY and PROMPTLY honor your purchasing commitment and payment process.
Questions that I cannot respond to include: How does this sound? How does it compare to XYZ? How will it sound used with XYZ? Do you have an opinion on XYZ? Will you trade for XYZ? Questions where the answer is in the listing's text. Aggressive or derogatory comments or questions.
In short, my time is limited. What I list for sale is intended for experienced, reasonable, and honorable audio enthusiasts that know the meaning of respecting someone else's time.
This listing was painstakingly composed to be thorough and accurate. Everything I know has already been declared and includes what is stated in it, no more, and no less. By no more, I'm also making clear that I cannot provide communication now nor in the future to anything not strictly related to the item in this listing.
If you feel your message to me was not successfully delivered, please contact me via the following email address (I'm not using the normal email syntax to avoid spam bots of course): professor_bizzt at centurylink dot net
Condensed policy statement: Unfortunately some people use my ads to seek advice in performing their own repairs. I do not give away my time to partake in this. I do not offer conversation or education, as my talents and aspirations do not lie there. I only offer commitment, conscientiousness, and competence in the repair of audio electronics and the design and marketing of custom made parts.
Please keep your emails very short and strictly on topic. My ads are long to satisfy those that require every detail, but that does not mean Iâm interested in, have time for, or am capable of lengthy chat. I refrain from subjective oriented or design topology discussions pertaining to my work because my electronic service rates are not structured to accommodate the significant added time and cost discussion of this nature entails. I'm only offering to perform high quality work and to market high quality custom made parts as per my ad descriptions, no more, and no less.
I strongly encourage you to make audio equipment decisions based on an understanding (or even a partial understanding) of the actual hard science, not audiophile subjective repartee. Declaring subjectivism king does a disservice to the healthy evolution of this industry. To ask another, ANY other (myself included), for a definitive subjective analysis of audio gear is to put yourself at the mercy of their psychology as well as their physiology, and that isn't going to help you.
Finally, please do not contact me if you are more impressed with getting a job done quickly than getting it done correctly. I do everything I can to repair equipment promptly, but there are times when repairs take longer than expected. Affordable pre-owned backup audio gear is commonly available, please make use of this while your audio component is repaired.